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HydroGrown
Hydroponics Ltd.
Copyright © 2006 |
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F.A.Q. TOPICS
General |
Hydroponics |
Lighting |
Growing Medium | Propagation |
Plants |
Pest Control |
Climate Control |
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Topic:
Propagation
F.A.Q.
Quick Links: |
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How do I start my seeds? |
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How do I take clones from a
plant? |
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Tips
on cloning |
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Final Note |
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How do I start my seeds? |
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It is always a good idea to soak seeds over
night. This will make sure that the seeds absorb enough water to
germinate quickly. If seeds are left to soak for too long they
will begin to germinate; this can be dangerous for the seed as
the radical (root) can be damaged when planting the seed. If the
radical is damaged then the seed will die.
Once the seeds have soaked for 8 - 12 hours they can be planted
out into either peat pellets, rockwool cubes, rapid rooter plugs
or oasis cubes. Be sure to soak the peat pellets in water before
planting the seed. This will only take a few minutes. Rockwool
needs to be pre-soaked at a pH of 5 or treated with Rockwool
Soak before planting seeds into it.
Once the seed has germinated and the cotyledons (first pair of
leaves) have emerged the seedling will require light.
Fluorescent lights are the best for this purpose. A grower can
use either an Envirolite T-5 Cloning Kit, a 2" - two bulb T5
fluorescent fixture, a 4" - four bulb fluorescent fixture with
6500k bulbs or a compact fluorescent 150w or 200w daylight bulb
to supply light for the seedlings. It is not recommended that a
HID light be used for young seedlings or clones unless it is
positioned high enough above the plants so as not to dry them
out.
Seeds and seedlings should only be given water until the first
true leaves have developed. Once the first true leaves have
expanded out then a mild strength (¼ strength) grow nutrient
solution should be given to the seedlings. Giving seedlings too
strong a nutrient will cause the seedling to go into shock, burn
the young developing roots and possibly kill the seedling. Once
the grower has started feeding his seedlings with a mild
strength nutrient it is advisable the grower use a root enhancer
such as Rhizotonic or Green Fuse Root. It is also a good idea
that the grower use Hydroguard or SubCulture to protect the new
developing root system against root pathogens. This will help
create a strong, healthy seedling.
A seedling is ready to be planted out when it is 2-3 inches tall
and the roots are coming out the bottom of the rockwool cube or
peat pellet. When transplanting a seedling it is important to
plant the seedling with the least amount of stress as possible.
At transplant the grower should use NutriBoost. This product has
a mixture of vitamins, hormones and auxins which help the
stressed seedling produce new roots and fine feeding root hairs.
The sooner the root system is rejuvenated the sooner the plant
recovers from transplant shock. From this point onwards the
plant is in vegetative stage.
Vegetative Stage
Once the seedling has been transplanted it then enters the
vegetative stage. This stage is to ensure the development of a
strong and healthy root system while the leaf canopy begins to
expand. A healthy, well developed root system is required for
fast growing, high yielding plants. Most of the plants nutrients
and water is taken up through the root system; the plant also
stores sugars in the roots. Without the support of a good root
system the plant will not be able to perform at its peak.
To create a healthy root system, a grower should ensure that the
ppm levels and the pH of the nutrient system are correctly
balanced. Over-feeding by the grower to try and push the plant
or to try and get a bit extra out of the plant will only result
in a damaged root system and a stunted or slow growing plant.
For soil growers, a pH of 6.3-6.5 is ideal. The ppm of the
nutrient solution should be between 500 - 700 for early
vegetative growth and 800 - 1000 for late vegetative growth.
Soil growers should also use Rooters Mycorrhizae in the growing
medium. Mycorrhiza needs to be mixed into the soil prior to
planting. Mycorrhizae fungi works well with organic nutrients,
as conventional nutrients can damage this fungi, especially if
the grower tries to push his plants to a maximum. For
hydroponics growers the nutrient solution should be balanced to
a pH of between 5.8 and 6.2; pH 6 being ideal. Rooting enhancers
such as Rhizotonic or Green Fuse Root should be used through out
the vegetative cycle. Fast growing roots require phosphorus so a
nutrient with good phosphate levels should be used. Looking
after the plants root system also ensures the maximum
development of the leaf canopy. A healthy disease and insect-free
leaf canopy will make maximum use of the lighting system it is
growing under. For plants that are phototropic, such as
strawberries, the plant will remain in vegetative state as long
as the light duration is long days short nights e.g. 18 hours of
lighting and 6 hours of darkness. Some plants e.g. Tomatoes,
will begin flowering once they have reached a specific maturity.
Tomatoes will flower after being in the vegetative state for
about two months. Plants that are phototropic will begin
flowering once the day length shortens or when switching from an
eighteen hour light cycle to a twelve hour light cycle.

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How do I take
clones from a plant? |
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Seven steps to take a clone from a mother
plant:
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1. Select a branch or stem that has at
least 2 or 3 sets of leaves. |
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2. Locate a spot on the branch between,
or next to, a set of leaf nodes where your cut will be made
(leaf nodes are where the branches come out of the stem).
Leave at least one set of nodes above the cut. |
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3. Make a clean, neat, 45 degree slice
with a razor blade or knife. It is important that you do not
damage the branch while handling. |
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4. Remove the lower 1 or 2 sets of
branches (stems and leaves), leaving the upper sets of
leaves to be placed above the growing medium line. Trim any
flowers or buds that remain (if necessary; refer to picture
below). |
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5. To prevent an air bubble (embolism)
from lodging in the stem where the cut is, immediately dip
the base of the cutting into a quality cloning gel, like
Olivia's or RooTech. Place cutting into your growing medium. |
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6. Keep your growing medium moist and
warm with bottom heat at all times for best results. Never
let your growing medium dry out. |
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7. Check your growing medium and transfer
cuttings once roots appear or a strong root ball is
established. |


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Tips on cloning: |
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Here are some tips you should take under
consideration when taking clones:
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The quality of your water should be
considered before taking cuttings. Reverse Osmosis or
drinking water would be an excellent choice. |
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The pH should be adjusted to between 5.5
and 6.2 by the time roots begin to develop. |
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It is essential that your cuttings
(clones) be taken from healthy plants. |
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Rockwool should be pretreated by using
Rockwool Soak, or soaking overnight in water with a pH of
about 5.0. |
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Be gentle when taking cuttings. They can
shock easily when cut. |
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Always use a sterile growing medium; be
it rockwool, soil, vermiculite, perlite, sand, etc. Never
use soil from your garden. |
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Always keep tools clean to avoid
transmitting disease to open plant wounds. Sterilize them
before each use if possible. |
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Keep your growing medium warm at all
times for best results. Bottom heat (with a heating mat)
will help cuttings root faster. Bottom heat: 75-85F
(24-30C). Greenhouse/indoor temperature (air, bench
level):70F (21C). |
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High humidity, just until roots begin to
emerge) aids in rooting your cuttings. A plastic cover
(humidity dome or tent) will increase your percentage of
roots cuttings. |
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Don't forget all plants need fresh air.
If your cuttings show signs of wilting, cut some holes in
your humidity dome/tent to allow air ventilation. |
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Remember to keep your room temperature
warm during the night or lights-out cycle if propagating
indoors. Add a space heater if necessary. |
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Excessive watering will kill your
cuttings. Never leave any water standing in the tray (unless
using an aeroponic cloning system). It is best to briefly
water the plants and then transfer them to a dry tray. |
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To achieve a uniform cutting you may trim
the leaves. Try to keep all your cuttings around the same
height. This allows each cutting to receive the same amount
of light. |
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If you are using outdoor sunlight, screen
your cuttings from the direct sun or place in a shady area
under a tree. |
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If you are using fluorescent lighting you
may (and should) place your lights within a few inches of
the tops of your plants without burning them. |
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If using high intensity discharge (HID)
lighting, either sodium or metal halide, give cuttings a
full 18 hours of light. A 6 hour night cycle is recommended
for optimum results. |
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Due to the amount of heat HID lamps put
out, keep the lights within a safe distance above your
cuttings or you will burn them. |
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Once roots appear, your cuttings can take
stronger, more intense light, either HID or outdoor
sunlight. Place your lights as close as possible. In other
words, the closer the lights are to your plants, the faster
your plants will grow. Transplant as soon as vigorous roots
appear. |
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Continue to use OLIVIA'S CLONING SOLUTION
during your entire propagating cycle, i.e. from the time you
first take your cutting, until they are fully rooted and
transplanted. |

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Final Note |
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Every plant
and growing situation is
different, so the length of time
it takes roots to appear will
vary from a week to a month or
more depending on the type of
plant (and environment).

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