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HydroGrown
Hydroponics Ltd.
Copyright © 2006 |
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F.A.Q. TOPICS
General |
Hydroponics |
Lighting |
Growing Medium |
Propagation |
Plants |
Pest Control |
Climate Control |
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Topic: Climate Control F.A.Q.
Quick links:
| Why
should I use CO2 Enrichment? |
| What are CO2
Generators? |
| When and how often do I need to use CO2? |
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How do I keep my room from getting too hot? |
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What is the ideal temperature range for plants? |
| What size fan do I need to vent my room? |
| Not all CFM's are alike |
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Why should I
use CO2 Enrichment? |
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Carbon Dioxide Enrichment will
dramatically increase the growth of green plants. Green
plants use carbon dioxide (CO2) and water in the
presence of light to synthesize organic compounds. The
plant then converts these organic compounds into
elements that it can use (food). This process is called
photosynthesis. If any of these ingredients (CO2, water
or light) is at levels below what the plant can use for
maximum efficiency, it will only be able to perform at
that level and no greater.
Adding carbon dioxide to a growing environment that is
not receiving proper nutrients or is low on light will
not produce the desired results. Similarly, plants that
are receiving plenty of sunshine and nutrients will only
perform as well as the ambient level of CO2 will allow.
The ambient level of CO2 in the earth's atmosphere is
generally between 300 and 600ppm.
Most plants receive far more water and energy in the
form of sunshine than they can use. Increasing the CO2
in the growing area will let the plant use the excess
water and energy that is stored in the leaves. The
result is a substantial increase in the growth rate of
any plant that uses chlorophyll in the process of
photosynthesis. Enrichment should commence at sunrise or
when photoperiod begins and refrain during darkness
hours. The average CO2 level that is recommended is 1000
to 2000 parts per million (PPM).
The object is to maintain a constant level in the
atmosphere. You can run a small unit continuously during
photoperiods or you can use a larger unit and time it to
function periodically. Where exhaust requirements are
frequent, the latter method is preferable. After the
exhaust function, the CO2 system (either a generator or
emitter system), can be cycled to replenish CO2 quickly
to maintain rapid plant photosynthesis.

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What are CO2
Generators? |
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Carbon dioxide generators operate by
burning carbonaceous fuels such as propane or natural
gas. The burners used in CO2 generators are specially
designed to maximize the production of CO2 and minimize
heat as a by-product. CO2 generators provide CO2 far
more economically than any other means of enrichment.
A constant burning pilot is used to ignite the gas when
the generator is turned on. A thermocouple is used to
monitor the pilot flame. If the pilot flame is lost, a
safety valve will close so that unburned fuel will not
be released into the enclosure.
CO2 generator operations may be automatically functioned
according to actual ambient values when installed in
conjunction with a carbon dioxide control device. This
control device continually samples the level of carbon
dioxide in the growing area and functions the generator
whenever CO2 levels do not meet your predetermined
values. Generators are easily installed, dependable and
efficient. For the greatest fuel/CO2 economy and
accuracy of recharge it is recommended that the Green
Air Products CO2 Monitor Controller (CDMC-2) be used
with all generator and emitter systems.

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When
and how often do I need to use CO2? |
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CO2 should only be used when your
lights are on, as plants only use CO2 during
photosynthesis. C02 is most effective during the
flowering stage, but we
recommend using CO2 throughout the life of your plants
for maximum results.

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How
do I keep my room from getting too hot? |
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Heat buildup in a grow room is a
common problem among growers. We usually advise our
customers not to go crazy and spend lots of money from
the get go, but instead take it in stages. Start with
the cheapest and simplest solutions first and graduate
to more expensive and complicated one's if the problem
persists. Proper planning of the grow room can make
things a lot easier. Make sure that you have not only
installed an adequate exhaust fan, but also make sure
you have sufficient intake, otherwise your fan will not
be able to do its job properly. In most cases, you will
not need to use a fan for the intake, an adequate size
opening in the room will do.
The next step towards cooling your room is to cool your
lights. Most of the lighting systems and reflectors we
carry have air-cooling options that allow you to hookup
your exhaust fan directly to your reflector, eliminating
the heat right at the source. Almost all air-cooled
reflectors have to two vent openings. Many growers will
simply attach their exhaust fan to one of the ducts with
some duct hose so that the hot, stale air in the grow
room will be sucked out along with the hot air in the
reflector that is generated by the bulb. If you are
using CO2, then you will want to suck air from an
outside source, through the reflector, and back outside
again so that you do not suck out any of the CO2-rich
air from the grow room. This scenario also applies if
you end up having to use an air conditioner, since you
don't want to suck out the cool, air conditioned air.
Most air conditioners have a vent which you will want to
close so that it recirculates the air in the room
instead of constantly sucking in air from the outside,
especially if the air outside is hot.
If, after venting your room and installing an air
conditioner, you still can't get rid of the heat problem,
you may need to consider water-cooling your lights. See
the lighting section for products such as the Hydro Coil
Water-Cooling Jacket for more information on
water-cooling.

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What is the ideal temperature range for plants? |
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Air temperature within the grow room
should be between 25 and 28 degrees Celsius or 77 and 83
degrees Fahrenheit. Water temperature should be between
20 and 22 degrees Celsius or 68 and 72 degrees
Fahrenheit.

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What
size fan do I need to vent my room? |
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Due to the many variables that have
to be considered, there is no exact answer or formula
available to determine the fan size. But, we will at
least try narrow things down as much as possible so that
you can make an educated guess. The old rule of thumb is
to try to replace the volume of air in your room at
least once every 5 minutes. Based on years of
experience, we feel that you should try to replace it every
1 to 3 minutes if you are trying to cool your room as
well as vent it. The formula used to determine the
volume of your room in cubic feet is to multiply length
x width x height, so a 10' x 10' x 8' room would be 800
CF. Divide this number by 5 and you will have the
minimum CFM (cubic feet per minute) fan required to vent
your room (in this example - 160 CFM).

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| Not all CFM's
are alike |
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It is important to realize that you
cannot compare fans based on their CFM rating alone.
Centrifugal fans are by far the strongest and generate
the greatest static pressure, which means they can blow
through long duct runs without losing too much flow.
"Squirrel cage" or shaded pole blowers (i.e. Dayton
blowers) are a distant second, followed by Suncourt
In-Line fans and finally Axial fans. Axial fans should
only be used for very small rooms or grow boxes where
they are attached directly to the wall with no
resistance or ducting involved. Suncourt fans are better
but don't generate much static pressure, so they should
not be used in situations where there is much resistance
due to bends in the ducting, insufficient intake source
in the room, etc. They are also good for boosting flow
down a duct run when the existing fan isn't cutting it.
There are several factors to take into consideration
when choosing your fan. The following is a list of
things to avoid, or at least factor in when you are
choosing a fan:
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long duct runs - the longer the
run, the more CFM will be lost |
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sharp bends in the ducting - try
to use sweeps instead |
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reducing the intake or exhaust -
going from a 10" fan down to a 4" duct is going to
severely impact your CFM and cause additional wear
and tear, electricity usage and noise due to back
pressure and resistance. When air-cooling lights,
for instance, try using "Y" adapters and reducers to
go from 10" down to 2 - 8", then down to 4 - 6", an
so on. |
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too small of an intake opening in
the room - you don't necessarily need a fan on the
intake side to bring fresh air into the room, but
you at least need an opening equal to or greater
than the diameter of the exhaust fan you are using.
You can't suck air out of a sealed room! |

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